What’s life like in Greece after the summer season?

What’s Greece really like once the summer crowds have gone? Our writer Julia Silk shares her experience of life after peak season, exploring the quieter beaches, warm autumn weather, local life and the best places to enjoy Greece year-round.

After the summer season heat has subsided and most of the tourists have gone home, a calmness settles over Greece. Feelings of relaxation and contentment sweep in on the sea breeze, luring you into a long siesta after lunch.

There is something about the sea air in Greece that makes people sleep more soundly here. Looking in the rear-view mirror of the car as we drive home from the beach, makes me smile. Visiting family and friends always fall asleep on the way back. Even those who have trouble sleeping at home tell me they’ve never slept as well as they have in Greece.

What’s the weather like in September and October?

Ask anyone who lives in Greece when the best months are to visit, and they’ll most likely say May and September. After the consistent heat of August, the temperatures gradually drop from September through to October. While the summer season can bring temperatures reaching the mid 30s, by the end of September it’s a very pleasant 28C.

It’s the perfect time to eat outside, see the sights, do water sports, hike in the canyons and go exploring by car, bike or boat, in search of a secluded beach. There is the chance of a couple of days of rain, but it is welcomed as it clears the air and passes quickly. I always think “Great I don’t need to water the plants”.

Northern parts of mainland Greece, the Cyclades and Dodecanese can be a couple of degrees cooler than in the southern islands. Houses on high ground or by the sea can also get a refreshing breeze.

What’s the sea like in Greece after the summer season?

In September, seas can actually be calmer than in summer, as the meltemi wind that causes some choppy conditions in July and August, starts to die down. Any weather delays to ferries don’t last long. Maybe just a day. In late September the seas are actually fairly calm.

After a sunny summer season, the water has warmed up nicely to around 24C – especially around southern islands such as Crete, Rhodes and Kos – making it perfect for swimming off the beach or a boat.

Can we get out on the sea?

If you are fortunate enough to have the use of a boat, my friends with a catamaran tell me that September is a great month to be out on the water. As well as the good weather, after the first week of September there are also fewer boats about. You can quite easily find quiet bays to moor up.

October is also a good time to get jobs done on your boat. We had a friend who bought an old wooden fishing boat and my husband did some work on it, in exchange for being able to use it.

Do all the restaurants close?

The summer season in Greece has been getting longer as more people realise how great September and October are. For as long as there are customers, the restaurants will stay open. To be sure of year-round restaurants and shops choose a location where there is already a good-sized resident population.

Where there are people year-round you will also find supermarkets, schools, doctors and medical centres.  After a busy summer season some restaurants might reduce their hours, only open at weekends or take a well-earned holiday themselves. Remote restaurants and those in holiday villages are more likely to close, unless they have built a reputation and attract people from a nearby city.

In our experience there is often a taverna inland either in the countryside or a small village that does such great food, people living in towns on the coast will travel there. Whenever we drove to Nafplio we would stop at a restaurant for lunch that only did lamb chops and chips. But it was the best lamb chops we had ever tasted. I seem to recall we first stopped at it out of curiosity because they had an old English ice cream van in the car park. 

Getting to know the locals

Once the busiest weeks of the summer season are over and the majority of tourists have gone home, you begin to see the real Greece shine through. Shopkeepers and waiters have more time to chat with you and Greek daily life becomes more traditional. The locals start to realise that you are sticking around.

When they aren’t trying to sell you their cousin’s ruin in the middle of nowhere, they will be enquiring about what you are doing to the house you’ve bought. No matter how wealthy you are, don’t let on, or pay tradespeople whatever they ask without checking it’s a fair price and getting it in writing.

If asked to help them or their child practice speaking English give it a go. It is a great way to make a Greek-speaking friend. They can be invaluable when it comes to dealing with the authorities and service providers.

Visit the historic sites

Major museums and historic sites still open across Greece in September and October, although they might gradually close earlier. The weather is more comfortable for visiting outdoor sites such as the Acropolis of Athens, Ancient Olympia, Palace of Knossos and Delos Island.

Our family likes to visit the Palamidi Fortress on the hill above Nafplio in the Peloponnese. To comfortably walk around the outside and enjoy the views, you want a warm day, but not roasting hot. Therefore, September and October are great months to visit Greece. The fortress has an admission fee, but it is free on a few special dates.

From 25th to 27th September 2026, Greece celebrates European Heritage Days by offering free entry to museums and archaeological sites owned by the state. You can also get free entry on 28th October 2026, as it is a national holiday.

What is the national holiday in October?

“Ohi Day” (Epéteios tou Óchi) remembers the date in 1940 when the Greek Prime minster said “no” to Italian dictator Mussolini’s demands to allow free passage for his troupes and occupation at certain sites in Greece. The Prime Minister said “no”, citizens came out on the streets shouting “Ohi!” and the Greek army successfully pushed back the Italian forces. Now, this date is a national holiday, Greek flags are brought out and there are military parades in the cities.

Can I get flights and a hire car?

The major car hire companies are still open across Greece in September and October. When we came to Greece for a house viewing trip at the very end of the summer season, we actually found it more economical to book a package holiday that flew into Kalamata, hire a car and only stay at the accommodation in the package on the first and last night.

The rest of the trip we drove around the Peloponnese looking at towns we liked along the way. If we got a good feeling about a place we would then enquire about property for sale and find a place to stay for the night.

At the time of writing (8th August 2026) EasyJet and Jet2 are offering flights from Gatwick to Kalamata up to 24th October 2026 and British airways offering flights until the end of September. As a comparison, EasyJet flies from Gatwick to Heraklion, Crete, until 8th November and to Athens all year round.

If you go on a website that compares prices of car hire you can find deals for as little as £20 a day in September and £10 in October at Kalamata airport. If you need to travel via Athens airport, be prepared for delays on connections by ferry to Piraeus Port, due to the weather. For peace of mind, you could arrive a day or two earlier and stay a couple of nights in Athens.

On one occasion we had booked a hotel in Athens for one night, but due to the ferry being delayed we only spent a few hours there before having to leave for the airport. But at least we didn’t miss our flight. 

Great places to live in Greece out of the summer season

Any town with a big enough population that ensures there will be facilities throughout the year is good for year-round living. It’s even worth considering the villages around them, if you have a car to get to the shops in town. Other things to consider are how often you might need to use an airport or hospital.

Athens

The city of Athens is the major location for transport links, healthcare and shopping. Some of the best towns under two hours from Athens are Kifisia in the hills, Glyfada by the coast, the port town of Rafina and historic Nafplio.

Thessaloniki

Greece’s second city is Thessaloniki in northern Greece. It is developing fast and has a growing expat community. Popular areas include the old town for it’s views and architecture and the east side with its promenade and marinas. Outside the city, Thermi is good for families and along the coast there are nice beach towns. You can even find year round international flights to Thessaloniki.

Crete

On the island of Crete, life still goes on for the inhabitants after the tourists leave, especially around Chania and Heraklion. September is a good time of year for vineyard tours and going on walks. Chania and Heraklion both have general hospitals. You can catch flights to Athens throughout the winter.

Lefkada

Lefkada is connected to the mainland by a bridge, therefore you don’t need to worry about being isolated on an island. In any case Lefkada has a working town, with shops and a hospital. The nearest big town and airport are Preveza (population over 30,000) and Aktion Airport. However, if you need to go to Athens that is almost four hours’ drive away.  

Rhodes

Rhodes has a population over 115,000 and all the facilities they require. There are hospitals, shops, restaurants and other businesses. Rhodes town is where everything happens and is a very walkable town with lots of history to discover around the stone streets. There are flights to Athens year round.

Corfu

Corfu is an island of over 100,000 residents, with a lively city. Tavernas and shops open year-round and there is a general hospital. Corfu International airport offers flights to Athens throughout the year.

Symi

If a quiet little island is what you seek, Symi may be a good option. It has a friendly community feel, with cafes and tavernas open year round. Locals organise clubs and there are said to be over a hundred permanent foreign residents. The nearest airport is on Rhodes, which can be reached by ferry in around an hour and quarter.

Summary

After a summer season catering for tourists, the inhabitants of Greek towns and villages can enjoy having it all to themselves. Quiet morning walks along the seafront, fresh fruit from the market, celebrating the grape harvest, dinner at a taverna, sunsets over the sea. To be in Greece at this time of year feels a real privilege, like you are a special guest in a Greek home. This is when you see the real Greece.

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