Sally Veall lives in north east Spain and writes regularly for Your Overseas Home about what daily life there is really like. In this diary entry, she describes how her town changes pace as summer sets in – from Sant Joan bonfires on the beach to evening tapas in the garden – and how she and her neighbours adapt their routines to the heat.
June brings the first proper heat of the year to Sally’s corner of Catalonia, and this summer arrived early. Within days of the solstice, the festival of Sant Joan had transformed the local beach into a stage for bonfires, fireworks and midnight swims. From there, the whole rhythm of the town shifts.
Here’s how Sally and her neighbours settle into the warmer months.
Contents
The start of summer
The 21st of June is the first day of summer and this year, it was already very hot here in northeast Spain, reaching 31ºC – some 5ºC to 6ºC warmer than is usual for this time of year. The UK and European countries have similarly suffered early heatwaves and as I write today, it hasn’t cooled down – it is 33ºC!
Unofficially, summer starts on 23rd June, on which day the Spanish celebrate the festival of St Juan or here in Catalonia, Nit de Sant Joan. It’s a mid-summer celebration, marked by large bonfires on beaches, fireworks and firecrackers, symbolic of the power of the sun and noise to ward off evil spirits. A run into the sea at midnight is de rigueur, supposedly to cleanse your soul and encourage good health.
The town of Palamòs near me puts on a splendid firework display and so, with a small group of friends, I made my way onto the vast beach some distance from the town centre with a mini picnic and some wine to enjoy the evening together. Others brought beer and homemade tortilla, the Spanish omelette. I didn’t actually head for the sea when the clock struck midnight but plenty of people on the beach did, cooling off in a rather warm Mediterranean.
Schools are also closed now, second-home owners and tourists are arriving and for the next couple of months, our lives will take on a different pace as our town and the coast become a mecca for holidaymakers.
Workouts despite the temperature
My gym stays open all summer, so twice a week I go to lift weights. It has kept me reasonably fit, strengthened ageing muscles and above all, is social. I have made good friends there, in particular with a French couple and another from Barcelona, as well as the gym owner, a charming young man of 28, who is highly qualified in all to do with fitness, nutrition and wellbeing.
The gym is kept cool by large industrial fans rather than aircon. This is deliberate as it is an ecologically sound space and aircon, though refreshing, harms the environment. I also use fans at home to keep cool and they are all silent as well as being efficient.
Evenings in the garden
I am fortunate that my garden is quite shady, thanks to a huge pine tree and a magnolia. Nevertheless, it is too hot to spend much time there until evening descends, mainly due to the tiles that cover the patio, which radiate heat. Entertaining is possible after around 8pm and I regularly have friends and neighbours round to share tapas, wine and cava. We don’t use the barbecue much, as we prefer lots of small dishes to enjoy at night. It’s better for digestion and sleep too.
I also go to my friends to spend time on their terrace or by the pool. Once again, the food on offer is for sharing which is, at least for me, the essence of friendship and Spanish tapas (or Greek, Italian and Moroccan) are a great way to express it.
The beach after 5pm
Of course, beaches are beginning to get crowded now, so we try to go late in the afternoon when most people have set off in search of a drink or a rest before the evening gets into full swing. The other advantage of going at this time is that finding a parking space is much easier. The small coastal villages near me, originally home to fishermen, were not built for large modern cars and parking spaces are limited. Much less so in the early evening. Often, we might go to a favourite tapas bar after a swim and drying off, so parking in the late afternoon/early evening is a winner.
Market browsing
My town has a food market open daily and a big market that sells practically everything on Sundays. In summer, the markets are larger and more fun, so I often go to other towns to explore their offerings. Most markets close at 1pm, so it’s a good idea to go early (before it gets too hot and too crowded).
There are also farmers markets, antique and bric-a-brac markets and artisanal markets. The latter usually open in the evenings when people enjoy the paseo, an evening stroll before dinner. These markets sell a variety of items from jewellery to bags, toys to pictures, mostly handmade and therefore unique. Prices vary but you can find some real gems for a few Euro. Check out the textiles, they are often the best buys.
Land of music
The summer brings music festivals, local musical events, jazz, blues, rock, classical and swing. Most towns have their speciality; mine is jazz but nearby is Torroella de Montgrí which offer first-class classical music.
Several patios in town, part of hotels or restaurants, hold gigs, and our main town square comes alive at weekends and some evenings when we’re treated to free concerts. There really is something for everyone and it’s one of summer’s greatest pleasures listening to good music, sipping a glass of wine and dipping into tapas surrounded by friends or family.
Final thoughts
Despite the heat sometimes feeling oppressive, we enjoy our summers by venturing out early in the morning or late afternoon. Staying out of the sun between midday and 5pm is important for our general health but we get enough vitamin D just walking around during the cooler times of the day. Summer in Spain is lively and entertaining but so are the quieter times of the year, each enjoyable in their own way.
