With its half-timbered houses, medieval villages and rich history, France’s Tarn-et-Garonne offers a true taste of rural life just an hour from Toulouse – and plenty to tempt future homeowners. Join writer and expat Alexis Goldberg as she explores this peaceful corner of southwest France and the timeless charm that makes it so special.
When a French friend told me a year ago that she was moving to a tiny village in the Tarn-et-Garonne, I made a mental note to pay her a visit one day. As autumn falls upon us, with the days still long and the colours on the trees so vibrant, that time came around last week.
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A hidden corner of southwest France
This glorious, mainly rural department, which was fought over by the English and the French in the 13th century, is one of those places that seems to get overlooked by many: not quite far south enough for some, not often talked about in guidebooks. Thus, it was an absolute delight to discover its charms and in particular the tiny fairytale like village to which my friend moved.
The storybook village of Montjoi
A little under an hour from Toulouse airport, the minuscule village of Montjoi appears like a pretty little bird, perched as it is on a small hill with twinkling lights seeming to beckon anyone who has caught sight of it. My friend had bought a gorgeous half-timbered house in the heart of this little village and I was blown away when I saw it. It was like stepping into a Royal Shakespeare Company set of Romeo and Juliet.
Montjoi has no shops – indeed, it is really just a series of very pretty houses – but it does boast a fine restaurant and the next door village of Castelsagrat has a small supermarket, bar, hairdresser and what I am told is the very best boulangerie in the department! My friend told me she fell in love with the village, and I could instantly see why.
Exploring Tarn-et-Garonne’s most beautiful villages
Tarn-et-Garonne is named after the two rivers running through it. Its prefecture is Montauban and aside from Montjoi, there are some stunning villages to visit.
Auvillar, Bruniquel and Lauzerte are all classified under the “Most beautiful villages of France”. Each is quite beautiful, surrounded by green and lush hillsides with the odd “pigeonnier” popping up now and again.
If you love French history you will love this department, as it is utterly steeped in it. It’s easy to imagine what life was like here hundreds of years ago, when the region was at the heart of 13th-century rivalries between England and France.
The medieval town of Lauzerte offers breathtaking views over the valley and is famous for its quirky upturned pavement in its centre. I met a group of walkers on their way to the pilgrim town of Santiago here.
Auvillar is another stunning medieval town with several good restaurants and incredible views over the countryside.
Bruniquel stands overlooking the Gorges de l’Aveyron. The Chateau de Bruniquel is in fact two castles built on a cliff. It is one of those places where you wonder how it was built and how it has lasted for centuries. You simply cannot help but gasp in awe at this place!
The Tarn-et-Garonne was increasingly looking to me like a superb hidden gem! It has masses of beautiful green land, forests and rivers as well as many other fabulous little hamlets and villages to explore. My friend chose Montjoi for its theatrical-like atmosphere, but you will find plenty of others in this department that fit that bill.
Property styles and prices
As for property, this is a department with a good range of styles of property as well as prices. From ancient houses with stone brickwork and wooden beams to new builds, there is something to suit everyone.
Why Tarn-et-Garonne deserves a closer look
Back in Montjoi I sat in my friend’s garden overlooking a field with cows grazing as the sun started to sink. This simply lovely village is a sight to behold and somewhere anyone wanting to escape the rat race should think about visiting. Indeed, the entire department is one to recommend as being very charming, very natural and just very French.
