Expat Sally shares what life in Spain is really like in November โ when the heat fades, the crowds go home and locals reclaim their streets.
November in Spain has a rhythm all of its own. The long, golden days of summer give way to misty mornings, late sunshine and a slower pace of life. Sally, one of our writers who lives year-round in Spain, describes what this quieter season feels like โ a time when the country exhales after a busy summer and locals enjoy life at an easier pace.
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One of my favourite poems is โOde to Autumnโ by John Keats:
“Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eaves run;
To bend with apples the mossโd cottage-trees,
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core.”
It is quintessentially British, but it is also true of autumn in much of Spain. In many ways, November is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, and living in Spain in November has a quiet charm all of its own.
What is Spain like in November?
The long, golden days of summer have faded, giving way to cooler mornings, a soft mist over the hills and the scent of woodsmoke drifting from nearby chimneys. Locals swap sandals for scarves, yet the warmth of the sun still lingers most afternoons, making it possible to sit outside with a coffee or take a stroll along the beach. The tourist crowds have thinned, leaving the streets and squares to residents once more. Cafรฉs hum with conversation, market stalls are piled high with autumn produce, including chestnuts, persimmons and wild mushrooms, and the pace of life slows to something altogether more reflective. Itโs a month that feels calm and unhurried, a gentle pause before the festive season begins, when the first hints of Christmas lights appear and people start to look forward to winter gatherings with family and friends.
This year, November has begun with higher-than-usual temperatures with many areas enjoying sunny days and 22ยบC in the afternoons. Some rain is forecast, which is normal for this time of year. Spain needs rain to avoid water restrictions in the summer. The north can be cold, wet and stormy, the south warmer and drier, and the mountainous regions are preparing for snowfall and the opening of the skiing season.
What to do in November
This month is the perfect time to take a short trip to a city,ย especially for those who live in Spain and want to avoid the crowds.
Madrid: Open all year, Madrid has so much to offer for a long weekend. A walk in Retiro Park to see the autumn colours, an art gallery or museum if it rains and jazz at the JazzMadrid Festival.
Bilbao: A boat trip along the Nerviรณn River allows glimpses of the city from different perspectives, the Casco Viejo (old town) is less crowded so you can enjoy its winding streets and pop into local pintxos bars to sample genuine Basque cuisine.
Granada: Taste roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes on street corners throughout the city, visit the Alhambra at nightime for a unique view, try a Torta de la Virgen at a cafe or buy one at the Autumn Market.
Attend an event
November is a great month for gastronomic events and fairs. There are numerous olive oil fairs in many parts of Spain, including:
- Fira de s’Oliva, Caimari (Mallorca): Held on 16th and 17th November, this event showcases products from the region’s olive groves.
- Jornadas del Olivar y del Aceite, Baena (Cรณrdoba): Many days dedicated to olives and olive oil, featuring tastings, workshops and cultural events
- Tarragona Olive Oil Fair: While the specific date may vary, this is a traditional November event in Tarragona where you can sample olive oils from the Siurana Designation of Origin.
Or how about some culinary and alcohol delights?
- International Sherry Week:ย A gastronomic festival celebrated in early November, with a major focus on Jerez de la Frontera.
- International Tapas Festival in Valladolid: This annual event, typically held in early to mid-November, transforms the city into a tapas capital.
- O Magosto, or Chestnut Festival: A traditional Galician autumn festival celebrated around late October and early November to welcome winter and honour the harvest.
November is also the month of film festivals:
- Alcalรก de Henares Film Festival โ Alcine: Runs from early to mid-November.
- Gijรณn International Film Festival: Held in mid-November.
- Seville European Film Festival: Occurs in early to mid-November.
Of course, โwinterโ in Spain is a rather fluid concept. The locals appear in padded coats and woolly hats the moment the thermometer dares to dip below 18 degrees, while the rest of us are still quite content in a cardigan, feeling faintly heroic. By late afternoon, the sun reclaims the day, and the cafรฉs fill once more with the clatter of cups and the gentle art of doing very little. Here, November is less a prelude to winter than a well-earned intermission; a warm, golden pause between seasons.
For all these reasons, November is an exciting month here in Spain, but for me the pleasure of strolling along the seashore with the warm sun on my back, spending time with friends on a terrace with a coffee or a glass of good wine, sweeping the leaves in my garden and then enjoying the late afternoon sunshine are why this month is so special (itโs also my birthday!). Crisp mornings with clear blue skies, cyclamen coming into flower, pansies smiling as I pass, the smell of roasted chestnuts, making spicy sweet potato soup and laughing with my neighbour all make the drift towards winter so enjoyable. Spain has it all.
